Assessment of predictors of lead climbing performance in Kazakhstani rock climbers

Abstract

Background and Study Aim. Finger flexor strength and endurance are components of lead climbing performance. Climbers develop these qualities within specific training environments shaped by facility characteristics and coaching practices. Despite the application of various strength and endurance assessments in climbing training, their relative effectiveness in explaining performance within a unified training system remains a matter of practical interest. The aim of the study is to assess the relationship between finger strength and endurance measures and lead climbing performance in climbers trained within a unified sports school system. Materials and Methods. A cross-sectional study was conducted with 38 competitive climbers (16 females, 22 males; mean age 21.8 ± 11.0 years) from one climbing school in Astana, Kazakhstan. Testing was performed during a training camp in Burabay. Participants completed five field-based finger flexor tests: maximal voluntary contraction, grip dynamometry, continuous endurance at 60% maximal voluntary contraction, intermittent endurance at 60% maximal voluntary contraction, and finger hang time on a 23 mm edge. Climbing performance was assessed using onsight and red point grades based on the IRCRA scale. Pearson correlation coefficients were calculated to examine associations between physiological variables and climbing performance. Analyses were conducted across gender and skill subgroups: Intermediate (n = 14), Advanced (n = 18), and Elite (n = 6). Results. Maximal voluntary contraction and finger hang time were moderately correlated with onsight (r = 0.543 and r = 0.625; p < 0.01) and red point performance (r = 0.546 and r = 0.603; p < 0.01). Continuous endurance showed no significant association with onsight (r = –0.095) or red point grades (r = –0.041). Among female climbers, intermittent endurance was associated with onsight performance (r = 0.628, p < 0.05). In the Advanced group, maximal voluntary contraction was associated with red point performance (r = 0.665, p < 0.01). In the Elite group, maximal voluntary contraction and grip dynamometry were strongly associated with onsight performance (r = 0.866 and r = 0.860; p < 0.05). Conclusions. The findings underline the importance of aligning finger strength and endurance assessment with the training context and the developmental stage of climbers. Test selection and training focus should reflect the specific demands imposed by the training environment rather than relying on uniform evaluation protocols. These considerations may support more targeted planning of training and monitoring strategies in lead climbing. Further longitudinal research involving multiple training centers is required to clarify how training context influences performance-related adaptations.